Archive for the Richtersveld Category
As some of you know I am a professional photographer working out of Cape Town, South Africa and hope that the photographs in my posts have been fairly interesting. The professional work has been connected to theatre and dance so this type of photography was pretty new to me. After having a look through all the photos from the trip I decided to do this post of a few that I think stand out from the rest.
Interesting to note that only 2 of the photos were taken with a high-end camera – actually a not so high-end Canon 20D with an 80-200 2.8f lens – and all the rest with a point and shoot type Canon G7 camera. I was truly amazed at the quality of the G7 and it was only for the photos of birds that I switched to the 20D.
- Sunrise at Brandkaros near Alexander Bay.
This is one of my favourites and I am using it as the desk top of my computer.
- Beach at Alexander Bay.
The feeling of desolation in this photo sums up the story of Alexander Bay itself.
- Hazy sunset at McDougalls Bay.
- Golden Sunset at McDougalls Bay.
Every sunset at McDougalls Bay seemed to produce different tonal qualities.
- Shipwreck at Port Nolloth.
This happened fairly recently and they were hoping to re-float her.
- Shipwreck just south of Kleinzee.
Not much chance of re-floating this wreck!
- Spot me if you can.
Photo of very well camouflaged chameleon taken near Kleinzee.
- Dragline taken at Kleinzee.
Namaqualand flowers just outside Nababeep.
Flowers near Springbok.
According to most of the locals I spoke to 2009 has not been a great year for flowers.
Seal on the edge at Hondeklipbaai.
About 10 seconds after I took this shot the seal took a headlong dive into that churning white water.
Still standing! (Dooringbaai)
Talk about the power of the sea – the noise when that wave hit that wall was like thunder.
Bird Island at Lamberts Bay.
The noise, and to be honest the smell, when you went down wind of these thousands of Gannets was quite something.
Bird on the wing.
Touch down at Verlorenvlei
Both bird shots above were taken at Vensterklip using a Canon 20D camera.
Well I hope you have enjoyed looking at the photographs as much as I did taking them. Hopefully there will be plenty more, at new locations, in the coming months.
Overall I enjoyed my 2 month journey from the Richtersveld through Namaqualand and down the West Coast and although there were some lows there were many more highs. The highs include places, sights and people that I met along the way. Overall it was the people that I met and chatted to that really made the trip worth while for me.
- Koos and Lieta Prince
Met up with Koos and Lieta at Brandkaros and I am sure that it was the 2 days that we shared that spurred me on to continue my journey in spite of all the set backs I had suffered. They have been caravanning around SA for years and taught me a lot. Wonderful couple.
- Pieter van Wyk.
Meeting up with and spending a morning with this young man was definitely one of the highlights of my journey. I am not going to try and recap all about this remarkable 21 year old so if you want to read more about him go to this link. I hope that one day, soon, he will have his book published, be awarded a bursary and given the opportunity to further his education at University.
- Annemarie and Saome Reck.
I spent a wonderful morning with this mother and daughter team who manage a B&B right on the banks of the Orange River. Talk about making the most of very little.
- Alta Kotze.
I enjoyed Port Nolloth and also received one of my biggest surprises in a long time when the lady above broke into song so that I could hear her voice and one of her own compositions. Truly amazing. I hope she gets the opportunity to further her ambitions and become a full time singer/composer.
- George Moyses.
Although I was not too happy with the caravan park at McDougalls Bay I did love the setting and also got to meet a real character who lives there in diamond diver George.
- Dragline at Kleinzee.
- Ship wreck just south of Kleinzee.
The 2 photographs above represent one of the the most pleasant days of my journey and I have to thank Gert Klopper of De Beers for showing me round Kleinzee and Dudley Wessels for taking me on the 4×4 trail along the coast. I thought Kleinzee was great and was amazed at what is being done there to make sure that the town does not go the way of places such as Alexander Bay. I see a big future for Kleinzee and if I had some spare cash I would buy property in the area as an investment or as a retirement option.
I enjoyed Springbok, the Springbok Caravan Park and exploring places like Nababeep and Okiep as I had travelled there 40 years ago and it was interesting to see how much things had changed – for the good and the bad.
- Fields of flowers at Skilpad.
Kamieskroon, because of the good caravan park was great and I also enjoyed my visit to Skilpad in the Namaqua Park where I spent a day looking at the beautiful Spring flowers.
Loved Hondeklip Baai and the people. If you love the sea I think it would be a great place to have a holiday house or even to retire.
My set-up at Strandfontein
Although I found Strandfontein a bit of a strange place I did enjoy my caravan site with its private ablution block.
Doringbaai and the power of the sea.
The last part of my journey included Lamberts Bay and Elands Bay. Lamberts Bay was interesting and I enjoyed exploring and meeting some of the locals. To be honest the best thing about Elands Bay was that it was only 5 km’s from my final caravan park call Vensterklip.
Set-up at Vensterklip with Verlorenvlei in the background.
Vensterklip was great as, again, I had a private ablution block and it was really quiet and peaceful. It also provided me with an opportunity to try my hand at photographing birds.
On the wing?
If you read my previous post you will see that the highs far out way the lows of my journey. As to the question will I carry on with my voyage of discovery the answer is YES. There are still so many more interesting places to see and people to meet that, God willing, I would like to carry on until I have covered the whole of the South African coast line.
I have been back in Cape Town for a week and had some time to think about my trip through the Richtersveld, Namaqualand and the West Coast. There are still so many more places that I want to visit on my voyage of discovery as my original aim was to travel the whole of the SA coast over a 3 year period. So after 2 months of my journey is this still what I want to do?
I am going to start with the lows as most of these occurred at the beginning of my trip and, apart from one or two problems later on, the majority of my journey was great.
The biggest low for me was the problem of my new deep freeze which just did not do the job. I had bought a lot of frozen food before I left Cape Town as I was not sure what would be available, and at what cost, in some of the small towns I was going to. Having to throw away over R500.00 worth of food was a real downer. This happened at Brandkaros which is 27 km’s from Alexander Bay. The drive to Brandkaros was also a low as the road was terrible for towing a standard caravan and caused some pretty heavy damage.
My site at Brandkaros
One of the worst problems I had at Brandkaros was the troop of about 30 monkeys that came into the park everyday and caused chaos by over turning the rubbish bins and jumping on the caravan and tent. The first time it happened I just wanted to pack up and leave.
Not one of my favourite animals.
I did find out, after a day or two, that they did not like the crackling sound of the shock-stick that I had with me.
I found that some of the caravan parks were badly run down and poorly maintained with the worst part being the ablution blocks. Some of them are appalling and here I think of Brandkaros, McDougalls Bay, Lamberts Bay and Elands Bay. If only the managers or owners of these parks knew how much caravanner’s talk amongst themselves about the parks and basically judge them on the ablution facilities. A prime example of this was Kamieskroon that everyone raved about, which had very average sites but fantastic ablutions.
Brandkaros ablutions. Really bad but I was told, just before I left, that they were budgeting quite a bit of money to upgrade them.
McDougalls Bay Holiday Resort?
McDougalls Bay ablution block.
What a place of contrasts. The site was the most run-down and yet was the most expensive on the first night that I stayed there as it was “in season” and cost me R123.00. You can not leave anything outside as people just walk up off the beach and steal. They also have a big problem with beggars. Even when I went back there after Brandkaros they wanted to over charge me. McDougalls Bay itself is stunning and it is such a pity that they do not do more with the caravan park.
Lamberts Bay Caravan Park.
Elands Bay Caravan Park.
I stayed at Lamberts Bay but not at Elands Bay and have put them together as they both fall under the same name and telephone number for information and management. Lamberts Bay is bad but from what I saw Elands Bay is shocking. Sadly both have been badly neglected. I say sadly because with good management and an injection of funds by the municipality both have the potential to attract a lot of people into the area all year round.
Lamberts Bay Harbour
I enjoyed the town of Lamberts Bay but found the street sellers and beggars to be very aggressive and make life very unpleasant.
Something that I can not understand is the inconsistency of pricing at the parks. I paid from a low of R45.00 per night at Kamieskroon to R123.00 per night at McDougalls Bay. As I said Kamieskroon was great McDougalls Bay not!! One thing I did pick up on was that where there was competition the better and less expensive the sites were.
Overall not too many lows and I know that when I post the highs they will be strongly in the majority.
Popped into the Port Nolloth Museum yesterday morning and spent a few hours looking at some interesting displays. Janine Olivier, who has been working at the museum for just over a year, was very helpful and passed on some enlightening information. I am not going to try and give a history lesson so hopefully the pictures will do the talking.
Port Nolloth Museum.
The building that houses the museum is a bit of history itself in that it was built in 1880.
The Port Nolloth Museum was opened over ten years ago and presents the history of Port Nolloth for approximately 2000 years. It also displays the history of diamond diving in the area, as well as geology and natural history.
Display about early inhabitants of the area.
History of Port Nolloth
Information about the old copper train and building of the jety.
Great display about diamond diving.
The west coast is notorious for all the ships that have been wrecked over the years.
A display of products in their original packaging.
While I had been wondering round and taking photographs I was drawn to the portrait below. The photograph was clearly not that old so I was wondering what it was doing hanging in the museum and asked Janine what the story was. (To be honest she also reminded me of an ex girl friend from way back when.)
Grazia de Beer.
Well it turns out that I am standing in the Port Nolloth museum as a result of all the work that this woman did in Port Nolloth over a period of 20 years.
Grazia de Beer was born in Italy and later came to Cape Town where she went to school at Springfield Convent and Ellersley in Sea Point. She graduated from UCT with a BA, was a singer in a leading jazz band, played guitar, composed songs and worked at the Italian Consulate as an interpretor. She married Coen de Beer, a diamond diver, and moved to Port Nolloth in the late 1980’s.
She ran a restaurant, established the Bedrock Lodge and opened the Port Nolloth Museum. She held a black belt in karate and started the Port Nolloth Dojo.
The Bedrock Lodge.
She was fearless in her convictions and brought up many cultural and environmental issues of the area. She put a stop to the slaughter of seals, and began marketing Port Nolloth as a special place to visit.
Grazia de Beer Beach Front.
Unfortunately Grazia de Beer passed away on the 25th of December 2007.
Grazia was so well liked and respected by the community, that they decided to name the new beach front development after her in honour of all that she had done for Port Nolloth and it’s inhabitants.
I met George on one of my walks along the beach soon after I got to McDougalls Bay. He was being interviewed by Get Away Magazine so I said I would catch up with him on another day. He has become quite famous in the area as he was also recently on SABC 2 in the 1st episode of a programme called “Shoreline”. It took me a number of attempts to catch up with him but yesterday I was eventually able to sit down and hear his story.
- George in front of his house.
George, who is 57, is a well spoken friendly guy, who has been living in the area for the past 30 years earning a living as a diver, extracting diamonds from the sea at various locations along the West Coast. He is passionate about the sea and diving. He is also a keen surfer and windsurfer and enjoys the solitude of living on his own at McDougalls Bay in his small house on the beach.
- The house right on the beach front.
- Training at Simonstown.
He received his diving training while serving in the navy at Simonstown.
It was near Simonstown that he and a friend salvaged a fishing boat, the Arabian Star, that had sunk without major damage. They restored, fitted out and renamed her Blues Breaker, then headed up the West Coast to try and make their fortunes.
- Blues Breaker.
I have watched a video that George made called “Diamond Divers” and can say that you have to be slightly crazy to do that kind of work. It is incredibly dangerous, they loose at least 2 divers annually, very physical and really long hours for generally not much reward. George has been fairly lucky and only had one major accident, right at the beginning of his career, when he was hit in the face by a propeller.
They can of course strike it lucky and have a really good pay day, of maybe R100,000, but that is an exception, a bit like hitting the lotto. They normally earn about R7,000.00 to R10,000.00 per month. These guys carry all the costs and only receive 50% of what they take out. They can only work when weather and sea conditions are favourable, which might be only 10 days of the month.
- Some underwater photographs of the dredging process.
George no longer works off his boat but from the shoreline. They use converted tractors to haul all the pipes, pumps and sifters right on to the rocks. In the video you see them working in the gullies as they look for and extract the gravel that contains the diamonds. I would not last an 10 minutes if I tried to do what they do.
- The once proud Blues Breaker is no longer looking too good.
George is a multi talented guy and supplements his income in different ways. He is a keen photographer and videographer and has produced a video which he sells for R100.00. I bought one of the videos and it has some fascinating footage of what these men go through in order to make a living. Most of the divers seen on the video are not young, average age of 50+ , and must be extremely tough and fit to survive. Many of the younger, experienced, divers have left for the oil rigs where they earn a good wage and work in far better conditions.
- Front entrance to George’s house.
He has converted part of his house into a small museum for which he charges R10.00 a visit and he also makes various articles from driftwood which he sells. He is separated, in a very friendly way, from his wife who lives and works in Port Nolloth and has 3 daughters, the youngest of whom is just about to matriculate.
- George with an old diving suite.
- Model ship he made from scrap wood.
- Info about the model ship.
- George with some of the goods he sells.
I gather from the video interviews and what George says, that there is a lot of uncertainty as to how much longer these divers are going to be able to make a living if things do not change. Right now the only ones making money are the mining companies who take 50% off the top with virtually no cost to themselves.
UPDATE ON GEORGE:
This post about George has been one of the most popular and most read so I thought I would post a quick update, thanks to Ludwig Venter, an old school friend who caught up with George and family a few weeks ago. Ludwig sent me some pix so I am posting these for all who might be interested.
Ludwig and George meet again after 40 years.
George and wife Debbie
George with family.
George's cabin which is right on the high water mark.
Another update on George:
George went to his 43rd school class reunion in Senekal recently and his friend Ludwig Venter sent me these photographs to post on this site.
George with a group of old school friends
George with daughter Helen looking at a slide show of his school days.
George after a quick dip in the pool - still looks pretty fit for a 60 year old.
Having a nice cold one.
George checking out all the messages and photos about him on "Gone Fishing"
All the very best for the future George and may you strike the “BIG” one soon.